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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.